Showing posts with label home brewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home brewing. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Home Brewing - Roasted Wheat Beer

As I mentioned in the post on Ginger Beer my staple beverage is roasted wheat beer. It's a small beer, being fermented for only a few days, so it's relatively low in alcohol. It's delicious (at least I like it) and is easy to make. I make it from white wheat that I've roasted in the oven.

This beer is light and refreshing, but still has a rich flavor of roasted wheat and, if allowed to age a week or two, it will have some coffee flavors. It's lightly hopped with a mild bitterness. I use Safbrew s-33 yeast and Cascade Hop pellets. It's hopped during the boil as well as dry hopped during fermentation. I drink it as a still beer, but if you want carbonation, you can bottle it.

The first step is to roast the wheat. I prefer to work with white wheat because I think that roasting red wheat gives the beer too strong a flavor, and the tannins in the bran of the red wheat will add too much bitterness. I prefer a mildly bitter beer.

Roasted wheat. I've put some raw white wheat in the center for a before/after comparison.


To roast the wheat, fill a sheet pan to 1"-1 1/2" depth and bake in the oven at 350° F for 45-60 minutes. Stir the grain every 15 minutes or so and remove when it's a deep golden to reddish color. I allow the grains to cool until they're comfortable to handle if I'm going to mill right away, otherwise I let them cool to room temperature and then store in an air tight container.

Once the grains have cooled, it's time to mill them. Milling breaks the grains up so there's more surface area exposed to the enzyme I'll be adding to the mash. If I was using malted barley along with the wheat I wouldn't need to add an enzyme, but because I'm starting with raw wheat that hasn't been malted, I need to add the enzyme that will break down some of the starch into fermentable sugars. Working with unmalted wheat, even with the enzyme, I won't wind up with enough fermentables for the yeast to eat, but the enzyme does break down some of the starch and I find that the flavor is better when the enzyme is used.

The cereal mill on its rolling table. The receptacle is a tray from an old rice steamer.

I have a small malt mill that's designed for milling brewers grains, but I find that this little cereal mill works better for me. I bought the cereal mill through Amazon for a bit less than $25. I don't even want to think about how many 100s of lbs. of grain I've run through this mill. Makes for a good workout, but I do have to remember to switch between hands when I operate it so I don't build up muscles on one arm more than the other.... It's a great little mill. I've ground wheat, popcorn, and barley with it.

Milled wheat.

I've got my mill set to just crack the wheat. I don't want flour or wheat meal. I won't be using rice hulls or anything else to allow the wort to drain from the grains at the end of the mashing process, and if I grind the grain too fine I'll wind up with dough when it's mashed.

Mashing the grain.


While I'm milling the grain I heat a gallon of water to 160° F to 170° F depending on whether the grain is warm or cold. I use 2 1/4 lbs of grain per gallon of water. That's actually what the receptacle of the cereal mill holds, which just happens to be the right amount. The average grain bill for all grain brewing is 2 lbs. per gallon of strike water (which is the water before the grain is added). Prior to adding the grain, I add 2 teaspoons of Amylase enzyme powder, stir until dissolved and then pour the grain in. I stir to even out the grain in the pan and then turn off the heat, cover, and let steep for 2 hours, leaving the pan on the burner.

Draining and pressing the grains.


Once the mashing is finished, I pour the wort and grains into a large colander that I've placed in a large pan. I like to flatten the grain out and using the sprayer from the sink and water as hot as it'll come out of the tap, I'll just rinse the grains a bit. This is to help get as much flavor out of the grains as possible. I don't spray more than a couple cups of hot water over the grain. Then I place a plate that's just a little smaller than the colander over the grains, put a pan on that, and a gallon jug of water in that pan. This makes a press and helps to get as much wort out of the grains without squeezing too much unconverted starch out of the grains. I let them sit like this for an hour or so.

Once the grains are drained, they go in the bucket and will be fed to livestock. Everyone loves spent grains. This spent wheat could even be incorporated into bread dough, or used in a wheat pilaf if I wanted to eat it myself. Or I could dry some of it and mill it into flour. It is perishable and will sour in a day or two, so it needs to be used right away.

Once I've drained the grains, the resulting liquid is called wort. I pour the wort into a pan, bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and add some sugar. I'll simmer it for a short while and then add hop pellets and simmer for around 5 minutes more, then strain and cool before pouring it into the fermenter and adding some more hop pellets.

My strainer. It's a splatter screen for covering frying pans. It's a fine mesh stainless steel screen that makes a perfect fine sieve.


I used to use hop cones (the whole flower of the hop plant), but I switched to pellets. They're easier to measure out and store for me. My go to hop is Cascade. It's mildly bitter and has a wonderful citrusy aroma that it imparts to the beer, especially when dry hopping, which is what I do when I add hops to the beer when it's fermenting as opposed to the hops I add to the boil. Cooked hops and cool steeped hops bring different flavors to a beer. There are many different types of hops out there and they all have their own wonderful characteristics. Cascade is my favorite though. In addition to flavor, hops act as a preservative, helping to keep the beer from spoiling. Hops are a relative newcomer to the beer ingredients list, only having been used for the past 500 or so years. Before that (and even now) many things were used to flavor beer, herbs, spices, etc. Nowadays, beer that's flavored with things other than hops is called Gruit.

Once strained and cooled, the wort will be poured into the fermenter, topping off with some distilled water or tap water that I've boiled to remove any chlorine, and I'll pitch my yeast. I pitch my yeast dry. Some people pitch their yeast into a sugar and water solution and let it grow overnight before pitching. If you want to use less yeast this is a good way to go. It's a good thing to be able to inoculate the wort with as many yeast cells as possible. That way any yeast or bacteria from the wild that get into the wort (which, lets face it, will happen unless you're working in a sterile lab) will be overwhelmed by the yeast you want to be working for you. It's also a handy way to make your dry yeast go farther.

Roasted Wheat beer in one gallon fermenters from multiple run.

The picture above is from a triple batch made with the recipe below. I like to make multiple batches as it gives me the opportunity to play with the recipe. It'll also give me slightly different flavors in the finished product and makes enough that I can age the beer for a little while. What I do is to make three batches and combine the wort in one large pot. I let it sit for a few hours so that the sediment will settle. For this I use a large canning pot that holds between 3 and 4 gallons.

Once the wort has settled I pour off one gallon of wort into a pan and go through the boil steps, cool, etc.. Pour off a second gallon, boil, etc. and finally process the last gallon. The first gallon will be the darkest and clearest, the last will be lightest and cloudiest. In the picture the jar on the back left is the first gallon, the jar in the back right is the second gallon, and the front center is the third gallon. I also had 1/2 gallon (not pictured) that had a lot of sediment. If you look at the bottom of the jars you can see how much sediment each gallon has.

The first gallon will finish with cleaner, more simple flavors and I'll probably drink it first. The second will have more complex flavors and the third gallon and the half gallon will have the most complex range of flavors, they will also yield the least amount of finished beer as they have the most sediment at the bottom of each container and they will have aged longer.


Roasted White Wheat Beer - makes one gallon


Ingredients -
2 1/4 lb. cracked roasted white wheat (not malted)
1 gallon water (tap water is fine as long as it tastes good to you)*
20 Cascade hop pellets
1 cup white granulated sugar
2 t Amylase powder
1 t Safbrew s-33 yeast
1/2 gallon boiled water or distilled water

Method -
  • In a large pan, bring 1 gallon of water to 160° F (170° F if your grain has been stored)
  • Add the Amylase powder and stir to incorporate, then pour in your cracked wheat
  • Turn off burner and cover. Leave the pan on the burner for 2 hours.
  • Place a colander over a catch pan and pour the wort and grains in it. Cover with a plate that's a little smaller than the colander on the grain and put a weight on it to press the grains. I use a one gallon milk jug filled with water. Don't use more weight than that or you'll extrude some of the grain out the holes in the colander.
  • Once the grains have drained, pour the wort back into your pan and bring to a boil.
  • Reduce to a fast simmer and add the sugar, stirring to dissolve.
  • Simmer for 15 minutes.
  • Add half of the hop pellets and simmer for another 5 minutes.
  • Place a fine mesh screen over another pot (I use one of those round spatter screens that are made to go over a frying pan) and pour the wort through it. This will strain out any stray grains that made it into the wort as well as the hops.
  • Allow the wort to cool until it's just warm to the touch (100° - 105° F) and pour into your fermenter.
  • Use the extra water to top off the fermenter to one gallon.
  • Add the rest of the hop pellets and allow to dissolve, then sprinkle the yeast grains over the wort.
  • Cover or fit an airlock and allow to ferment for 3-5 days, then bottle.
Note: When straining and transferring the wort into the fermenter, try to incorporate air by holding the primary container a ways up when pouring. In other words, don't be gentle. When the wort is boiled, in addition to concentrating and pasteurizing it, a lot of the oxygen is driven out. Yeast needs oxygen in addition to sugars to survive and thrive. By being rough when pouring, you'll add air. Of course, the air will have wild yeast and any airborne bacteria, which is why culturing your yeast prior to pitching, or pitching a goodly amount of dry yeast grains is good. That way the good yeast will have a better chance of getting the jump on any rif raf riding in on the air. Once the yeast get established a layer of carbon dioxide will form on the surface of the wort, along with foam, and that'll help prevent any other rif raf from invading your wort as it ferments.

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Home Brewing - Ginger Beer

I love all sorts of fermented beverages. Wine, mead, ale, spirits, I have my favorites in each category. With the exception of spirits, Oregon allows me to make what I like, and I can work with spirits as long as I buy my base alcohol from the liquor store. Just as well, as I've had moonshine that was good and some that was only suitable for paint stripper or fuel additive. Distilling spirits is not something I want to have to deal with anyway.

But as for fermented drinks, I'm all over that. Often, unless you're using expensive ingredients, making your own alcoholic beverages is very cost effective. I work a lot with wheat, and once it's mashed, I can feed the spent grains to my animals, so I get two uses out of the grain. I can make between 25 and 30 gallons of wheat ale from one 50# bag of wheat. Price 25 gallons of wheat beer. Even if you compost the spent grains (which make excellent compost, by the way), it's still much less expensive than buying that much beer at the store.

But even if you do use relatively expensive ingredients, such as ginger, it's still cost effective. I bought almost a pound of really nice fresh ginger from the store (non organic) at $3.99/lb. That amount of ginger will make 3 1/2 gallons of ginger beer. Price ginger beer from the store (if you can find it) and figure out how much 3 1/2 gallons will cost you.  Probably a lot more than $3.99 plus a buck for the yeast and sugar.

The other nice thing about learning how to ferment your own beverages is that you can make things that you won't be able to find at the store. It's like cooking, once you learn the basics, the world is your oyster (or goblet in this case).

I'd been making a lot of wheat ale and got a hankering for something different. I'd experimented with ginger beer last year and found it to be easy and relatively fast to make (compared to beer) as well as downright tasty. So a while ago I decided to give the ale a break, and make some ginger beer. I wanted to make quite a bit, so I bought a large hand of ginger ("hand" is what a large section of the ginger rhizome is called) that weighed almost a pound. Once I had it peeled and grated I realized I would have enough to make 3 1/2 gallons. In order to make it an even 4 gallons, I decided to split the batches into 2 gallons of plain ginger beer, and one gallon each of ginger/kiwi and  ginger/pomegranate.  It's always nice to try something different, and pomegranate and kiwi are two types of fruit I've always wanted to experiment with.

Ginger Beer is one of those easy to make fermented beverages that doesn't involve a lot of steps like regular beer made from grains, or wine. All of the ingredients are available at your local grocery store, even the yeast if you use bakers yeast (which I have done in the past). It's also light and refreshing. The perfect drink on a hot summer day. You can start drinking it after just a few days fermenting, or you can bottle and let it age a bit. Either way, it's good. It has a gingery snap, but isn't overpowering.



2 gallons of basic Ginger Beer fermenting.

I like to use this like a big carafe. But sometimes I use it for fermenting as well. Depending on how much material is on the bottom, if I'm fermenting in this container, I may or may not draw directly off of this container for consumption. There's enough material in the bottom of this batch that I'll probably just go ahead and strain into another container, then return to this container for storage and consumption.



This is the size of container I normally ferment in. Ginger/Kiwi on the left, Ginger/Pomegranate on the right.

One gallon jars, you really can't beat them for trying out different recipes. Once finished fermenting, they'll be decanted into smaller jars or into bottles. Working with small batches is nice, especially when developing different recipes. If a recipe works, I can always scale up, but if it doesn't I haven't wasted much. And if a batch goes bad, I'd rather loose one gallon than 5. Batches going off is a real possibility because I don't use an air lock, and I lift the lid daily to check the progress. The sniff test works pretty well to check on progress of the ferment, but when I lift the lid new air will get into the container, and air is full of wild yeast and bacteria. But I've been brewing for a few years this way and it's what works for me.



Basic Ginger Beer - makes approximately one gallon

Ingredients -
4 T grated fresh ginger
2 C sugar
6 T lemon juice (fresh or bottled)
1 t Safbrew s-33 (general purpose, top fermenting, brewers yeast)*
1 gallon water

Method -
  • Peel and grate the ginger
  • Bring one gallon of water to a boil, then reduce heat and hold at a simmer for 5 minutes
  • Add the sugar and stir to dissolve
  • Add the lemon juice and grated ginger, shut off the heat (but leave on the burner), cover, and allow to steep for 1 hour
  • Pour into primary fermenter, cover and allow to cool to just warm (100°F-105°F)
  • Pitch yeast, cover or fit airlock, and allow to ferment for 3-5 days
  • Strain into pressure safe bottles and store at room temperature or under refrigeration if aging, or you can begin drinking right away.

Variations on the theme:

Ginger/Pomegranate - To 3/4 gallon of basic ginger beer wort** add the pips of 4 large pomegranates that have been bruised. I like to freeze the pips first to break down the cell walls. Once thawed, I use a steel strainer and ladle like a mortar and pestle, to bruise the pips just enough to break the skin and release some of the juice, but not enough to crush the seed. Ferment for 3-5 days and then strain into pressure safe containers and age or begin to drink right away.

Ginger/Kiwi -
Ingredients -
7 large kiwi fruit, peeled and chopped
1 C sugar
1 1/2 C ginger beer wort**

Method -
  • Bring the wort to a boil, add the sugar and stir to dissolve
  • Add the chopped kiwi and reduce to a simmer, cooking for 20-30 minutes
  • Force the pulp and liquid through a strainer and add both to enough ginger beer wort to make one gallon.
  • Ferment as for basic ginger beer (3-5 days)
  • When done, strain into pressure safe containers and age as you wish or start drinking right away
*A note on yeast and why I chose to use Safbrew s-33. I've worked with several wine and beer yeasts. I've even used plain old bakers yeast when making different wines and beers. So you can use any kind of yeast to ferment beers and wines, some really daring beer and wine makers allow wild yeast to colonize their wort or must just as sourdough makers will often allow wild yeast to colonize their starter. Yeast is literally everywhere.

But here's the deal, the yeast will have a strong influence on how your beverage will turn out. I've found that the yeast influences the flavor of the beverage as much as any of the other ingredients. So the yeast you choose is every bit as important as the other ingredients.

After a couple of years of working with different types of yeast, I settled on two as my staple yeasts. Safbrew s-33 is a nice, all purpose yeast. It's most commonly used to brew beer and it has a pretty wide range of working temperatures, doing well in cold environments (50°-60°F) and warm environments (up to the mid 80°s room temperature), so I can use it year round. And it gives the beverage a nice range of flavors, being able to preserve both grain and fruit flavors.

The other yeast I like to work with is Montrachet. This is a wine yeast that likes warmer temperatures, but will still work in cool temps, although not as cool as the Safbrew s-33. It also preserves fruit flavors well and isn't as harsh if I let it use up most or all of the fermentable sugars, producing a dry wine.

These and many other yeasts can be found at your local home brew store and online from places like HomeBrewStuff on Amazon (where I buy yeast, hops, and other supplies), FH Steinbart, etc.

**Wort is what we call the liquid that the yeast is pitched into when making beer. It's a beer brewer's term. In wine making the juice from the fruit is called must. Ginger Beer isn't really beer, it's more akin to a wine. In general, beer is made from grain, wine is made from fruit and/or berries. Ginger Beer is made from a rhizome, but it's called a beer anyway. What the hey, Root Beer isn't what people usually think of as beer either....

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.