DIY Projects - Dog Kennel Greenhouse Part I: Introduction and the ridge rail

As a gardener, a greenhouse is one of the most useful pieces of equipment you can have. When we think of greenhouses, we may think only of the big greenhouses that commercial nurseries have, and those are nice, but you can build a greenhouse out of almost anything. Basically, a greenhouse is a frame covered with the appropriate material. While I'll be building a couple of hoop greenhouses this year, those aren't the only kinds of greenhouse there are.

My first greenhouse, The Cube.

The first greenhouse I ever built, and one that I still use, I called The Cube. It was a square steel frame that my father had built for a winery to handle wine barrels.  When the winery no longer needed it, dad gave it to me. I covered it with greenhouse film, put a white tarp on top, and voila! I had a greenhouse. It served me well for years. It's small as far as greenhouses go, being only around 90 square feet, but one year I produced almost 400,000 plugs and containers of produce from it. It was the heart and engine of my small farm and small greenhouses continue to be the heart and engine of my garden.

The Cube currently sits idle while I refurbish it, so I needed to set up another small greenhouse. I have a dog kennel that I used to house poultry last year. It's close to the house, and gets sun most of the day, even in the dead of winter. It's partially under an old apple tree, but the tree doesn't interfere with the sun during the winter, and not much in the summer, so it's in a good location, and I've decided to repurpose it as a greenhouse.

Regular greenhouse frames are simple structures. The most common use a bow and post system. There is hardware made for connecting the bows, posts, purlins and struts as well as attaching the greenhouse film. But when you start working with other types of frames, a bit of ingenuity is required as every structure will have its own challenges to overcome.

This may look like a complicated build, but really, as you read through the article, I think that you'll find that it's a pretty simple and straight forward project requiring only basic building skills. If you can pound nails, tie a knot, and operate a couple of basic power tools, you can build something like this. It's just a matter of knowing what you want and being able to think outside the box a bit. Being able to read a tape measure comes in handy too. ;-)

Dog kennel greenhouse under construction.

This kennel was given to me years ago and is actually built from the parts from two different kennels. It has two doors and isn't square. It's approximately the same square footage as The Cube (90 square feet, give or take), but not being square, installing a center ridge will be interesting. I'm also going to be building it from as many existing materials as possible. I'll be using Schedule 40 PVC for the bows that will support the top, and nailer boards around the top of the walls to hold the greenhouse film that will cover the structure. I'll also be using suspended shelving instead of benches. The Cube uses benches, which makes it easy for rodents to get to the trays holding the seedlings, a problem that I've been fighting ever since I set up The Cube. Mice find germinating seed and seedlings irresistible, and there are fewer things more frustrating than finding hundreds of seed shells sitting on top of the potting soil, laying open like books after some little varmints have dug them up and eaten the meat of the seed during the night....

The first part of the build is the ridge rail. For this I used some scrap lumber and an old 2" X 8" X 10' plank. The lumber is old, but it'll work for this build. I'll probably remodel the kennel over the winter or next year, as I see things I'd like to improve, so I don't need the lumber to last for more than a year. Because no two sides of the kennel are parallel and because only two sides are the same length, the ridge rail is lashed to one side of its post on one end and the other side of its post on the other end. It looks funky, but it works and is pretty secure.

I like to use a ridge rail for a couple of reasons. First, it helps to support the roof. In this case, I'm using PVC pipe for the bows, and given that the roof will span 9' - 10', I need the extra support. Second, a ridge rail gives me a place to hang lights and/or a coiled water hose. The Cube has a ridge rail made from a steel I-beam. There is a trolley that runs on the beam and that I've hung a coiled hose from. I can't tell you how convenient it is to have the hose up instead of laying on the ground. It's up and out of the way when I'm not using it, so it doesn't get tangled, I don't have to worry about tripping over it when I'm moving things in or out of the greenhouse, and when I am using it, all I have to do is pull it out. This greenhouse won't have a trolley, but it's small enough that I can hang the hose from the center of the rail and use it the same way. If this greenhouse was long, I'd be setting up a trolley or set of rollers on the ridge rail similar to what The Cube has.

Lashing. It's important to lash the ridge rail to the upright both at the top and the bottom, I used two pieces of poly twine for the lashing. The kennel is just a little wider than the ridge rail is long, so I had to scab on some pieces of 2 X 4.

Instead of nailing or screwing the ridge rail to the end braces, I'm lashing them with baling twine. I have livestock and so I buy hay. I always save my baling twine and I won't buy hay baled with sisal or jute twine because they're difficult to work with. Poly twine is smooth and easy to reuse. I use poly twine for all sorts of things. Lashing, netting, braided rope, even lashed hinges can be made out of the stuff. It'll only last for a couple of years out in the elements (it's not UV stable), but for temporary things it can't be beat. And it's recyclable. Poly twine is recycled into more poly twine. I'm particular in how I cut the twine on a bale of hay or straw. I always try to cut it at the knot and hang it up when I remove it from the bale. When I remove what ever I've secured with the twine, all I need to do is untie the knot and undo the lashing, or I can use a knife or scissors and put the twine in the recycling bag if I don't plan on reusing it.

Supporting the "other" end of the rail.

When working on projects like this, it's easier if there are two people, especially when handling something like the ridge rail. But if you're doing it by yourself, you can make yourself an extra hand to support one end of the board while you're working on the other end. I screwed this piece of scrap to the upright to support the end of the rail and loosely tied it to the upright to keep it from sliding off, but not so tight that I couldn't move the rail back and forth to position it.

While I have a good set of tools, this building project is pretty simple and doesn't require a long list of tools or extensive construction experience. With some ingenuity and basic building skills, you can repurpose an existing structure as a small greenhouse. It's also not a terribly expensive project. I'm using scrap lumber, pallets I got for free, and greenhouse film I already have on hand to build the project, so it won't cost me much. But even if you did have to buy new lumber and film, it still wouldn't cost you as much as buying a regular greenhouse kit, and it can make your garden incredibly productive. I figured that when I built The Cube, I was into that project for less than $150. I have a couple of auto canopies that I will be converting to greenhouses this year and if I had to buy the frames, lumber and film new I would be into them for less than $350 each, which would be pretty reasonable for a 10' X 20' greenhouse. I'll include a list of materials and the tools I'm using to build this greenhouse at the end of the series.

To be continued in Part II framing in the roof.

This is a 4 part series on the conversion of a dog kennel into a greenhouse. When the project is finished and all of the articles are written, I'll post links to all of them here. Articles scheduled for this series:
Part I: Introduction and the ridge rail
Part II: Framing the roof
Part III: Hanging the shelves
Part IV: Installing the greenhouse film and conclusion

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Things You Might Not Have Known Were Edible - Walnut Drupes

Walnuts are actually a drupe, meaning that it's a seed encased in a fleshy cover. What we usually eat is the inside of the seed after the drupe has completely matured. Almonds, coconuts, peaches and nectarines are also drupes. Blackberries and raspberries are made up of collections of druplets that form the berry.

I don't know if the raw drupes are edible, but, like olives, they are delicious when pickled. I forget where I first heard of pickled walnuts, but it's been a thing in Europe for a very long time. And it's become a staple condiment in my home.

Pickled walnuts are salty with a rich flavor and I like to use them, either mashed or puréed with their own pickle juice and spices, as a condiment. This purée  can be used like a steak sauce and is excellent with all meat and poultry, on baked potatoes, etc. The pickling juice can be used as you would soy sauce and is just as salty as soy sauce. The pickled spices, when dried, can be ground and used as a seasoning. Pickling the drupes is a pretty straight forward process, similar to pickling olives. It takes a couple of weeks, but I think it's well worth the effort.

Immature walnut drupes are a seasonal crop, and they don't store very well, so they need to be processed when they're picked. However, once they've been pickled, they'll keep for a long time either frozen or stored in the pickling solution. They're also shelf stable, so they don't require canning.

Bucket o' Drupes.

The time to pick the drupes is mid June, when they have gotten as large as possible, but before the hard shell has begun to form. I like to pick them during the second and third week of June. I always check some drupes prior to picking to make sure the shell hasn't started to form. To do this I insert a needle or toothpick into the stem and blossom ends of a few of the largest drupes. I can feel the shell if it's started to form and I know, if I find a shell, not to pick any drupes that size. Usually though, I don't find a shell and I can pick all the drupes, both large and small.

Drupe and floral disk. I just roll the drupe over the disk with enough pressure to prick the surface. You can buy floral disks at most craft shops.

After the drupes are picked, they're washed to remove any dust or debris and run through a mild sanitizing solution. Then the ends are cut off and the skins pricked to allow the brine to penetrate the drupe. I like to use a floral disk. It punctures the surface of the drupes evenly and it's a lot faster than using a fork or a pin, especially since I will process up to 6 gallons of drupes at a time.

A pan of drupes ready to go into their first brine.

Once the drupes have been pricked they're ready to soak in their first brine. They'll soak in this for 5 days, then be rinsed and put in a second brine for 7 more days. I use plain (un iodized) salt. You can use pickling salt, but I find that the plain granulated salt is less expensive than the pickling salt and does just as well.

Drupes that have been going through their first brine. You can see that some of them have turned black on the surface that was exposed to air. This isn't a problem as they'll turn coal black in the next step.

Once the drupes have gone through the second brine, it's time to dry. I drain the drupes and rinse them, then place them on racks to air dry for 3 days.

Drupes drying in nursery trays.

I like to use these nursery trays to dry the drupes. They're large, hold a lot of drupes and have spaces in the grid that are big enough for most of the drupes to rest in with minimal contact. I turn the drupes once a day. At the end of the drying process the drupes will be coal black and wrinkled. As the drupes dry, a fine, tawny colored powder will form on parts of them. This is the salt drying on the surface and it's normal.

Dried drupes ready for the spiced pickling solution.

Once they've dried, they're ready to go into jars with spices, garlic cloves, and a hot pickling solution of salt, water, and vinegar. I like to wait a month or two before starting to use them to allow the spices and garlic to flavor both the drupes and the juice. As I mentioned, they're shelf stable at this point, needing no refrigeration and they don't need to be canned. However, because they're not canned, I do recommend keeping the rings on the jars (I use one pint wide mouth canning jars), as the seal after the jars have cooled won't be as strong as on jars that have gone through a pressure or water bath canner. Because there is so much salt, I recommend using plastic canning lids instead of the metal lid and ring system.

If you'd like to try some pickled walnuts without having to make them, you can find them at Amazon and directly from other purveyors on the web.

Pickled Walnuts

For the brine -
1/2 cup plain (un iodized) salt to 5 cups water. Bring to a boil and stir until salt is dissolved.

For the pickling solution -
3 C water
3 C apple cider vinegar
6.5 T plain (un iodized) salt

Dry Spice Mix -
4 T whole coriander seed
4 T whole yellow mustard seed
4 T whole black peppercorns
4 whole peeled garlic cloves

Method -

• Pick and rinse the walnut drupes in clean water, then run through a mild sanitizing solution of  1 T bleach per gallon of tap water, and rinse thoroughly.
• Trim off the end of each drupe and prick the surface evenly.
• Place drupes in a non reactive container (I use a food safe plastic bucket) and cover with brine. Place a plate and clean weight over them to keep them submerged. Leave in this first brine for 5 days.
• Drain, rinse, and place in fresh brine, covering with plate and weight, and leave for another 7 days.
• Remove from brine, rinse, and lay out on racks making sure that the drupes don't touch each other. Allow to air dry for 2-3 days, until black and wrinkled and the surface is dry.
• Clean enough canning jars to hold the drupes, then pack in the jars along with 4 whole peeled garlic cloves per pint.
• Combine the water, salt and vinegar for the pickling solution in a pan and bring to a boil.
• Add 2 T of the dry spice mix per pint to the jars, then pour the boiling pickling solution over the drupes, leaving a little head space.
• Wipe the rim of each jar and lid.
• Allow to sit on a towel to cool completely before storing in the pantry.
• Allow to age for at least one month before using.

Walnut Sauce I

Ingredients -
2-4 pickled walnuts
1 t spices from the jar
1 of the garlic cloves from the jar
2 T of the juice from the jar to start

Method -

• Chop the walnuts and garlic, then add, along with the spices and pickle juice, to a wide mouth one pint canning jar.
• Purée with a stick blender, adding more pickle juice from the jar to bring the sauce to the consistency you want. I like to make my sauce about the same consistency as steak sauce or ketchup.
• Store in an air tight container or squeeze bottle.

Variations on the theme -

• Add some sugar to sweeten the sauce and temper the saltiness.
• Add a little bit of raisin paste to the sauce to temper the saltiness and add another layer of flavor.
• Add a little bit of Hoisin sauce to the walnut sauce to add another layer of flavor and temper the saltiness.
• Add a little sesame oil when puréeing to give it an Asian flavor.

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Home Brewing - Roasted Wheat Beer

As I mentioned in the post on Ginger Beer my staple beverage is roasted wheat beer. It's a small beer, being fermented for only a few days, so it's relatively low in alcohol. It's delicious (at least I like it) and is easy to make. I make it from white wheat that I've roasted in the oven.

This beer is light and refreshing, but still has a rich flavor of roasted wheat and, if allowed to age a week or two, it will have some coffee flavors. It's lightly hopped with a mild bitterness. I use Safbrew s-33 yeast and Cascade Hop pellets. It's hopped during the boil as well as dry hopped during fermentation. I drink it as a still beer, but if you want carbonation, you can bottle it.

The first step is to roast the wheat. I prefer to work with white wheat because I think that roasting red wheat gives the beer too strong a flavor, and the tannins in the bran of the red wheat will add too much bitterness. I prefer a mildly bitter beer.

Roasted wheat. I've put some raw white wheat in the center for a before/after comparison.

To roast the wheat, fill a sheet pan to 1"-1 1/2" depth and bake in the oven at 350° F for 45-60 minutes. Stir the grain every 15 minutes or so and remove when it's a deep golden to reddish color. I allow the grains to cool until they're comfortable to handle if I'm going to mill right away, otherwise I let them cool to room temperature and then store in an air tight container.

Once the grains have cooled, it's time to mill them. Milling breaks the grains up so there's more surface area exposed to the enzyme I'll be adding to the mash. If I was using malted barley along with the wheat I wouldn't need to add an enzyme, but because I'm starting with raw wheat that hasn't been malted, I need to add the enzyme that will break down some of the starch into fermentable sugars. Working with unmalted wheat, even with the enzyme, I won't wind up with enough fermentables for the yeast to eat, but the enzyme does break down some of the starch and I find that the flavor is better when the enzyme is used.

The cereal mill on its rolling table. The receptacle is a tray from an old rice steamer.

I have a small malt mill that's designed for milling brewers grains, but I find that this little cereal mill works better for me. I bought the cereal mill through Amazon for a bit less than $25. I don't even want to think about how many 100s of lbs. of grain I've run through this mill. Makes for a good workout, but I do have to remember to switch between hands when I operate it so I don't build up muscles on one arm more than the other.... It's a great little mill. I've ground wheat, popcorn, and barley with it.

Milled wheat.

I've got my mill set to just crack the wheat. I don't want flour or wheat meal. I won't be using rice hulls or anything else to allow the wort to drain from the grains at the end of the mashing process, and if I grind the grain too fine I'll wind up with dough when it's mashed.

Mashing the grain.

While I'm milling the grain I heat a gallon of water to 160° F to 170° F depending on whether the grain is warm or cold. I use 2 1/4 lbs of grain per gallon of water. That's actually what the receptacle of the cereal mill holds, which just happens to be the right amount. The average grain bill for all grain brewing is 2 lbs. per gallon of strike water (which is the water before the grain is added). Prior to adding the grain, I add 2 teaspoons of Amylase enzyme powder, stir until dissolved and then pour the grain in. I stir to even out the grain in the pan and then turn off the heat, cover, and let steep for 2 hours, leaving the pan on the burner.

Draining and pressing the grains.

Once the mashing is finished, I pour the wort and grains into a large colander that I've placed in a large pan. I like to flatten the grain out and using the sprayer from the sink and water as hot as it'll come out of the tap, I'll just rinse the grains a bit. This is to help get as much flavor out of the grains as possible. I don't spray more than a couple cups of hot water over the grain. Then I place a plate that's just a little smaller than the colander over the grains, put a pan on that, and a gallon jug of water in that pan. This makes a press and helps to get as much wort out of the grains without squeezing too much unconverted starch out of the grains. I let them sit like this for an hour or so.

Once the grains are drained, they go in the bucket and will be fed to livestock. Everyone loves spent grains. This spent wheat could even be incorporated into bread dough, or used in a wheat pilaf if I wanted to eat it myself. Or I could dry some of it and mill it into flour. It is perishable and will sour in a day or two, so it needs to be used right away.

Once I've drained the grains, the resulting liquid is called wort. I pour the wort into a pan, bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and add some sugar. I'll simmer it for a short while and then add hop pellets and simmer for around 5 minutes more, then strain and cool before pouring it into the fermenter and adding some more hop pellets.

My strainer. It's a splatter screen for covering frying pans. It's a fine mesh stainless steel screen that makes a perfect fine sieve.

I used to use hop cones (the whole flower of the hop plant), but I switched to pellets. They're easier to measure out and store for me. My go to hop is Cascade. It's mildly bitter and has a wonderful citrusy aroma that it imparts to the beer, especially when dry hopping, which is what I do when I add hops to the beer when it's fermenting as opposed to the hops I add to the boil. Cooked hops and cool steeped hops bring different flavors to a beer. There are many different types of hops out there and they all have their own wonderful characteristics. Cascade is my favorite though. In addition to flavor, hops act as a preservative, helping to keep the beer from spoiling. Hops are a relative newcomer to the beer ingredients list, only having been used for the past 500 or so years. Before that (and even now) many things were used to flavor beer, herbs, spices, etc. Nowadays, beer that's flavored with things other than hops is called Gruit.

Once strained and cooled, the wort will be poured into the fermenter, topping off with some distilled water or tap water that I've boiled to remove any chlorine, and I'll pitch my yeast. I pitch my yeast dry. Some people pitch their yeast into a sugar and water solution and let it grow overnight before pitching. If you want to use less yeast this is a good way to go. It's a good thing to be able to inoculate the wort with as many yeast cells as possible. That way any yeast or bacteria from the wild that get into the wort (which, lets face it, will happen unless you're working in a sterile lab) will be overwhelmed by the yeast you want to be working for you. It's also a handy way to make your dry yeast go farther.

Roasted Wheat beer in one gallon fermenters from multiple run.

The picture above is from a triple batch made with the recipe below. I like to make multiple batches as it gives me the opportunity to play with the recipe. It'll also give me slightly different flavors in the finished product and makes enough that I can age the beer for a little while. What I do is to make three batches and combine the wort in one large pot. I let it sit for a few hours so that the sediment will settle. For this I use a large canning pot that holds between 3 and 4 gallons.

Once the wort has settled I pour off one gallon of wort into a pan and go through the boil steps, cool, etc.. Pour off a second gallon, boil, etc. and finally process the last gallon. The first gallon will be the darkest and clearest, the last will be lightest and cloudiest. In the picture the jar on the back left is the first gallon, the jar in the back right is the second gallon, and the front center is the third gallon. I also had 1/2 gallon (not pictured) that had a lot of sediment. If you look at the bottom of the jars you can see how much sediment each gallon has.

The first gallon will finish with cleaner, more simple flavors and I'll probably drink it first. The second will have more complex flavors and the third gallon and the half gallon will have the most complex range of flavors, they will also yield the least amount of finished beer as they have the most sediment at the bottom of each container and they will have aged longer.


Roasted White Wheat Beer - makes one gallon


Ingredients -
2 1/4 lb. cracked roasted white wheat (not malted)
1 gallon water (tap water is fine as long as it tastes good to you)*
20 Cascade hop pellets
1 cup white granulated sugar
2 t Amylase powder
1 t Safbrew s-33 yeast
1/2 gallon boiled water or distilled water

Method -

• In a large pan, bring 1 gallon of water to 160° F (170° F if your grain has been stored)
• Add the Amylase powder and stir to incorporate, then pour in your cracked wheat
• Turn off burner and cover. Leave the pan on the burner for 2 hours.
• Place a colander over a catch pan and pour the wort and grains in it. Cover with a plate that's a little smaller than the colander on the grain and put a weight on it to press the grains. I use a one gallon milk jug filled with water. Don't use more weight than that or you'll extrude some of the grain out the holes in the colander.
• Once the grains have drained, pour the wort back into your pan and bring to a boil.
• Reduce to a fast simmer and add the sugar, stirring to dissolve.
• Simmer for 15 minutes.
• Add half of the hop pellets and simmer for another 5 minutes.
• Place a fine mesh screen over another pot (I use one of those round spatter screens that are made to go over a frying pan) and pour the wort through it. This will strain out any stray grains that made it into the wort as well as the hops.
• Allow the wort to cool until it's just warm to the touch (100° - 105° F) and pour into your fermenter.
• Use the extra water to top off the fermenter to one gallon.
• Add the rest of the hop pellets and allow to dissolve, then sprinkle the yeast grains over the wort.
• Cover or fit an airlock and allow to ferment for 3-5 days, then bottle.

Note: When straining and transferring the wort into the fermenter, try to incorporate air by holding the primary container a ways up when pouring. In other words, don't be gentle. When the wort is boiled, in addition to concentrating and pasteurizing it, a lot of the oxygen is driven out. Yeast needs oxygen in addition to sugars to survive and thrive. By being rough when pouring, you'll add air. Of course, the air will have wild yeast and any airborne bacteria, which is why culturing your yeast prior to pitching, or pitching a goodly amount of dry yeast grains is good. That way the good yeast will have a better chance of getting the jump on any rif raf riding in on the air. Once the yeast get established a layer of carbon dioxide will form on the surface of the wort, along with foam, and that'll help prevent any other rif raf from invading your wort as it ferments.

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Home Brewing - Ginger Beer

I love all sorts of fermented beverages. Wine, mead, ale, spirits, I have my favorites in each category. With the exception of spirits, Oregon allows me to make what I like, and I can work with spirits as long as I buy my base alcohol from the liquor store. Just as well, as I've had moonshine that was good and some that was only suitable for paint stripper or fuel additive. Distilling spirits is not something I want to have to deal with anyway.

But as for fermented drinks, I'm all over that. Often, unless you're using expensive ingredients, making your own alcoholic beverages is very cost effective. I work a lot with wheat, and once it's mashed, I can feed the spent grains to my animals, so I get two uses out of the grain. I can make between 25 and 30 gallons of wheat ale from one 50# bag of wheat. Price 25 gallons of wheat beer. Even if you compost the spent grains (which make excellent compost, by the way), it's still much less expensive than buying that much beer at the store.

But even if you do use relatively expensive ingredients, such as ginger, it's still cost effective. I bought almost a pound of really nice fresh ginger from the store (non organic) at $3.99/lb. That amount of ginger will make 3 1/2 gallons of ginger beer. Price ginger beer from the store (if you can find it) and figure out how much 3 1/2 gallons will cost you.  Probably a lot more than $3.99 plus a buck for the yeast and sugar.

The other nice thing about learning how to ferment your own beverages is that you can make things that you won't be able to find at the store. It's like cooking, once you learn the basics, the world is your oyster (or goblet in this case).

I'd been making a lot of wheat ale and got a hankering for something different. I'd experimented with ginger beer last year and found it to be easy and relatively fast to make (compared to beer) as well as downright tasty. So a while ago I decided to give the ale a break, and make some ginger beer. I wanted to make quite a bit, so I bought a large hand of ginger ("hand" is what a large section of the ginger rhizome is called) that weighed almost a pound. Once I had it peeled and grated I realized I would have enough to make 3 1/2 gallons. In order to make it an even 4 gallons, I decided to split the batches into 2 gallons of plain ginger beer, and one gallon each of ginger/kiwi and  ginger/pomegranate.  It's always nice to try something different, and pomegranate and kiwi are two types of fruit I've always wanted to experiment with.

Ginger Beer is one of those easy to make fermented beverages that doesn't involve a lot of steps like regular beer made from grains, or wine. All of the ingredients are available at your local grocery store, even the yeast if you use bakers yeast (which I have done in the past). It's also light and refreshing. The perfect drink on a hot summer day. You can start drinking it after just a few days fermenting, or you can bottle and let it age a bit. Either way, it's good. It has a gingery snap, but isn't overpowering.

2 gallons of basic Ginger Beer fermenting.

I like to use this like a big carafe. But sometimes I use it for fermenting as well. Depending on how much material is on the bottom, if I'm fermenting in this container, I may or may not draw directly off of this container for consumption. There's enough material in the bottom of this batch that I'll probably just go ahead and strain into another container, then return to this container for storage and consumption.

This is the size of container I normally ferment in. Ginger/Kiwi on the left, Ginger/Pomegranate on the right.

One gallon jars, you really can't beat them for trying out different recipes. Once finished fermenting, they'll be decanted into smaller jars or into bottles. Working with small batches is nice, especially when developing different recipes. If a recipe works, I can always scale up, but if it doesn't I haven't wasted much. And if a batch goes bad, I'd rather loose one gallon than 5. Batches going off is a real possibility because I don't use an air lock, and I lift the lid daily to check the progress. The sniff test works pretty well to check on progress of the ferment, but when I lift the lid new air will get into the container, and air is full of wild yeast and bacteria. But I've been brewing for a few years this way and it's what works for me.

Basic Ginger Beer - makes approximately one gallon

Ingredients -
4 T grated fresh ginger
2 C sugar
6 T lemon juice (fresh or bottled)
1 t Safbrew s-33 (general purpose, top fermenting, brewers yeast)*
1 gallon water

Method -

• Peel and grate the ginger
• Bring one gallon of water to a boil, then reduce heat and hold at a simmer for 5 minutes
• Add the sugar and stir to dissolve
• Add the lemon juice and grated ginger, shut off the heat (but leave on the burner), cover, and allow to steep for 1 hour
• Pour into primary fermenter, cover and allow to cool to just warm (100°F-105°F)
• Pitch yeast, cover or fit airlock, and allow to ferment for 3-5 days
• Strain into pressure safe bottles and store at room temperature or under refrigeration if aging, or you can begin drinking right away.

Variations on the theme:

Ginger/Pomegranate - To 3/4 gallon of basic ginger beer wort** add the pips of 4 large pomegranates that have been bruised. I like to freeze the pips first to break down the cell walls. Once thawed, I use a steel strainer and ladle like a mortar and pestle, to bruise the pips just enough to break the skin and release some of the juice, but not enough to crush the seed. Ferment for 3-5 days and then strain into pressure safe containers and age or begin to drink right away.

Ginger/Kiwi -
Ingredients -
7 large kiwi fruit, peeled and chopped
1 C sugar
1 1/2 C ginger beer wort**

Method -

• Bring the wort to a boil, add the sugar and stir to dissolve
• Add the chopped kiwi and reduce to a simmer, cooking for 20-30 minutes
• Force the pulp and liquid through a strainer and add both to enough ginger beer wort to make one gallon.
• Ferment as for basic ginger beer (3-5 days)
• When done, strain into pressure safe containers and age as you wish or start drinking right away

*A note on yeast and why I chose to use Safbrew s-33. I've worked with several wine and beer yeasts. I've even used plain old bakers yeast when making different wines and beers. So you can use any kind of yeast to ferment beers and wines, some really daring beer and wine makers allow wild yeast to colonize their wort or must just as sourdough makers will often allow wild yeast to colonize their starter. Yeast is literally everywhere.

But here's the deal, the yeast will have a strong influence on how your beverage will turn out. I've found that the yeast influences the flavor of the beverage as much as any of the other ingredients. So the yeast you choose is every bit as important as the other ingredients.

After a couple of years of working with different types of yeast, I settled on two as my staple yeasts. Safbrew s-33 is a nice, all purpose yeast. It's most commonly used to brew beer and it has a pretty wide range of working temperatures, doing well in cold environments (50°-60°F) and warm environments (up to the mid 80°s room temperature), so I can use it year round. And it gives the beverage a nice range of flavors, being able to preserve both grain and fruit flavors.

The other yeast I like to work with is Montrachet. This is a wine yeast that likes warmer temperatures, but will still work in cool temps, although not as cool as the Safbrew s-33. It also preserves fruit flavors well and isn't as harsh if I let it use up most or all of the fermentable sugars, producing a dry wine.

These and many other yeasts can be found at your local home brew store and online from places like HomeBrewStuff on Amazon (where I buy yeast, hops, and other supplies), FH Steinbart, etc.

**Wort is what we call the liquid that the yeast is pitched into when making beer. It's a beer brewer's term. In wine making the juice from the fruit is called must. Ginger Beer isn't really beer, it's more akin to a wine. In general, beer is made from grain, wine is made from fruit and/or berries. Ginger Beer is made from a rhizome, but it's called a beer anyway. What the hey, Root Beer isn't what people usually think of as beer either....

All content including pictures © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Seed Starting in January - Snow Peas

The goal: have the earliest possible snow peas.

I always get antsy in January. As I've mentioned in the past, the Winter Solstice is my New Year's eve, and winter is, for me, a season of awakening, as the days grow longer. Even if they aren't really growing warmer, in the northern Willamette valley or Oregon, winter is usually pretty mild. In fact, first pea planting is Presidents Day in mid February.

One problem with that is our cold, often waterlogged soils, which make germination of direct planted seed difficult. So, what I like to do is to start the seed indoors and transplant the little seedlings. Usually, I'd wait to do this until the first week in February, but given that we're having a pretty mild January, I've decided to start the seed now, a couple of weeks early.

I grow snow peas. They are nice to work with in the early part of the year as they germinate relatively quickly, prefer cool weather, and tolerate frost and freezing weather well. If I loose a planting, I can always reboot quickly.

3 oz. paper bathroom cup

For this project I'll be using paper cups and potting mix to start the seed. Sometimes I use nursery containers or plug trays to start seed, and sometimes I use peat or coir* pellets. But I'm going to be starting a lot of seed, and I want to avoid transplant shock as much as possible. I want to make transplanting as easy on me as possible as well. I used to start my pea seed in 2" band pots, which made transplanting easy as I would just place the little pot in contact with the ground, but it also meant that at the end of the season I had to go out and pick up all the little pots. Using paper cups makes transplanting just as easy as the band pots, but I don't have to go out and pick up containers at the end of the season. They're not reusable, but at the price, about 2¢ each they're cost effective. I buy my potting soil by the yard and pay around $50/yard for it, so I figure around 1¢ per cup for that for a total of around 3¢ in materials.

I don't use the peat or coir pellets for things that I'm growing a lot of, because, even buying in bulk, I can't get a good price break unless I buy 1,000 at a time, and, even then, they're over twice as expensive as the paper cups with a bit of potting soil. I'll be setting out the seedlings at 6" intervals, so I'll need 2 pots per row foot. I'll be planting 200 row feet per succession in 50' rows, so I'll need to start 404 pots (101 per row) per planting. I can space the little cups so far apart because I'm placing 3 seeds in each cup, if I were direct seeding I'd place 2 seeds every 4". Because I'm hydrating (soaking) my seed, I should have a very high germination rate.

I trialed this method a couple of years ago and found it works pretty well for peas, beans, cucumbers and squash, as well as all sorts of leafy greens. I use the plain, small bathroom cups, not the antibacterial ones. For plants that need more room, I'll be using paper cone cups sold for use with water coolers. Those I'll detail in another article later this year.

Pea seed, hydrated and ready to go

When I soak seed prior to planting, I count it out, weigh or measure it first, especially when I'm going to place a specific number of seed in a specific number of containers. I don't want to come up short and I don't want to throw away seed. I like to use these little plastic food storage containers for hydrating seed. They have a lid so I don't have to worry about spills, and I can stack them out of the way. They also work great for storing dry seed.

Usually I'd only soak the seed for 8 hours or so, maybe overnight. But because it's the cool part of the year and the soaking seed was stored between 55° and 60° F, I let it soak for a couple of days. This way I can be sure that not only is it fully hydrated, but I can see that it's germinated as well.

Acrospire (shoot) development in pea seed. The acrospire looks like a little tail or spine growing just under the skin or husk of the seed. 

The seeds in both of the pictures above were soaked in the same batch and were at the same level in the container. Warm water was poured over the seed and the container covered then left in a room at 55°-60° F. The seed on the left of the left hand picture shows an acrospire that is about to emerge from the seed coat (skin). The seed on the left of the right hand picture has already begun to emerge. Another hour or so and this seed would be too delicate to handle without damaging or breaking off the acrospire.

When soaking for longer than a few hours, especially when it's very warm, care should be taken to place the seed prior to emergence of the acrospires and rootlets. The acrospire is the plant shoot that emerges from the body of the seed. It goes up and the rootlets go down. If you handle seed after the acrospire has emerged from the seed coat, it's easy to damage it or break it off, rendering the seed useless.

In cool environments (50° - 60° F) you have a couple of days from wetting the dry seed to placing the seed in growth medium. As the environment gets warmer the time from wetting to germination can shorten dramatically. In the summer, when temperatures are 70° F or higher, I allow no more than 24 hours from putting the dry seed in water to planting. I only hydrate large seed such as pea, bean or corn. I don't bother hydrating small seed like radish, mustard or seed for squash and cucumbers.

While the seed is hydrating, I prep the cups by cutting a cross in the bottom and partially filling with potting soil, then tamping. Cutting the bottom of each cup is important. It allows for drainage and it also allows the roots of the plants to grow out and, eventually, into the soil of the beds they're destined for. The cups also need to be place in a container to hold them. I usually place them in plug trays with large cells or in nursery trays. But, really, any container will do as long as it will drain excess water. You don't want the cups sitting in standing water.

Filling and tamping.

You can tamp the soil with anything that will fit in the cups. On the left is a measuring cup from a liquid cold medicine. On the right is a small nursery pot.

Seeding.

When the seed is ready, it's added to the cups, which are then topped with potting soil and I tamped down with my hands. After that it's just a matter of waiting for the plants to emerge and grow big enough to plant out. If I am delayed in planting, I may let the plants grow to 3 sets of leaves and harvest some of them above the bottom set. That gives me pea threads for salad greens while still leaving enough of the plant that I can set it in beds and grow it out for the pea pods.

I'll go over the bed prep and planting for these pea plants in another article. So stay tuned....

All content, including pictures, © Joanne Rigutto unless otherwise noted.

Starting Seeds - egg carton method

I'm not a big fan of direct seeding. I just don't have as much success as I do when I start seed in containers and transplant. Root crops can even be started in containers if you do it right.

There are many advantages to starting seed in containers. I can seed into clean media such as potting soil, coir (the fiber from coconut shells), peat, or rock wool cubes. I can start the seed indoors, either in my house, a greenhouse, or a shed, which means I can control the temperature of the environment and the media I'm using. And, when I go to plant, I can transplant the seedlings into a clean bed or one that's been mulched for weed control. It's more work to start the plugs and then transplant, but I feel that, in the long run, not having to deal with weeds more than makes up for that little bit of extra labor on the front end of the process.

There are many ways to start seed in containers. Plug trays are a great way to do this. The trays are reusable, inexpensive, and when cared for, will last several years. There are also paper cups, peat or coir pellets, pulp egg cartons, cardboard tubes and nursery pots.

I'll be writing more on those other seed starting methods in later articles, but today's article is about using pulp egg cartons and pulp egg flats to start seed for transplanting. I like to use these for starting lettuce, endive, romaine, escarole, fennel, basil, and some root crops. Basically any crop that would benefit from transplanting shortly after germination and that doesn't do well if the roots are disturbed.

They're not so good for crops that need deeper media prior to transplant, such as solanums (tomato, pepper, etc.), corn, squash, cucumbers, etc.

Pulp egg carton. Good for more than just egg storage. The cells in the tray (bottom) are great small containers for seed starting, and, if the lid is solid, seed for carrot, turnip, or other types of roots that don't like transplanting, can be used. Once the seed sprouts, just place the lid on the prepared soil and let the plant grow down through it.

I  like using pulp cartons because they're inexpensive. If you buy eggs from the store you probably have some laying about even as you read this. If you don't buy eggs from the store you probably have friends who do and they have cartons that you could ask for. They also disintegrate when you plant, adding carbon rich material to the soil and allowing the roots from your plants to grow out through them. When you transplant, all you have to do is to pull the cells apart and place them, plant and all, into the soil, just as you would with a peat or coir pellet or a plant started in a peat or coir nursery container. This reduces transplant shock.

Because they're made of paper pulp, these egg cartons become very fragile when they get wet, so they will need to be supported. Any water proof or water resistant container will do.

Egg trays in a pastry tray

You can use just about any kind of container. This is a pastry tray. I've used one 18 count carton and one 12 count carton. One row of cells was cut off the end of each to make them fit the tray, but the tray now holds 25 cells. And it came with a dome, which helps with germination. The pastry was mighty tasty too. As a side note, when ever I buy a product, I always look at the container, thinking about what I can use it for. In this case, the container helped make the sale of the pastry. It's also why, when I buy eggs from the store, I usually buy them in pulp egg cartons.

Although, sometimes buying eggs in a plastic or foam tray does have its advantages. The plastic tray that the pulp egg carton trays are in was given to me by a friend who thought I could use it. He was right.

If you buy lots of eggs from the store, you might consider buying them in flats like this one. Or you  might be able to get used flats from a restaurant. Egg flats make great seed starting containers, as long as they're made of paper pulp. A standard flat holds 30 eggs. If you were to buy that many coir or peat pellets you might spend upwards of $5. The flat you'll get for free.

All content, including pictures, © Joanne Rigutto, unless otherwise noted.

Roasted Wheat Pasta

Fresh home made pasta ready too cook. So simple and easy. It takes about as long to roll out the dough and cut the noodles as it takes to bring the cooking water to a boil.

This has become my staple pasta and I make it frequently. I used to make my pasta from all purpose unbleached white flour, but when I began making ale from roasted white wheat I began experimenting with using some of it to make flour and wheat meal. While I love the nutty flavor that the roasted wheat flour adds to the pasta, when using only the roasted wheat flour I found that the resulting dough was too firm and brittle, so I began cutting it with the all purpose flour. I've found that mixing the roasted wheat flour and the all purpose flour 1:1 is just right. The all purpose flour adds some elasticity to the dough, but not so much that the dough contracts very much when rolled out (a problem I do have when using only all purpose flour). At 1:1, the flavor of the roasted wheat still comes through without being too strong.

Pasta made from this mix still has enough roasted wheat flavor that it comes through all but the strongest flavored sauces, and it's also delightful served with an Alfredo sauce, pesto, or served ala Carbonara. It's also very good served simply with good quality butter, some herbs and Parmesan cheese.

Fresh pasta is very easy to make and I don't use store bought pasta any more. Using a rolling pin and pizza cutter or knife, it takes me about as long to roll out the dough and cut the noodles as it takes for the water to come to a boil, and only a couple of minutes to cook. If you use a pasta machine to roll the dough and cut the noodles it would take even less time.

Roasted whole wheat. The pale grains in the center of the picture are unroasted white wheat.

To make the roasted wheat, place a portion of white wheat in a shallow roasting pan or dish (no more than 1 1/2" deep), and bake in the oven at 350° F for 45-60 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. When the wheat reaches the desired color, remove from the oven and allow to cool before placing in it's storage container.

 

Grinding the wheat, before and after. This little grinder will process about 1/2 cup of wheat at a time into a coarse flour.

To grind the wheat into flour I use a small coffee grinder. If you have one, you could use a small kitchen flour mill, but I don't, so it's the coffee grinder for me. Small coffee grinders can be bought for under $20 and are handy for grinding all sorts of things (not just coffee beans). If you use a small coffee grinder you'll wind up with a coarse flour. I actually prefer this. If you prefer a finer flour, you'll need to purchase a small kitchen flour mill. I don't recommend using a food processor or a blender as you'll wind up with more of a wheat meal than flour.

One note on grinding grains, don't grind more than you will use in a month (I only make a cup of flour at a time). Because you're grinding whole grains, you'll have the germ along with the bran and starch of the grain. The germ has oils which will go rancid (become oxidized) eventually. The whole roasted grain will keep for much longer.

My preference for roasting wheat is white wheat. White wheat was bred from red wheat, which has more tannins in its bran, making it somewhat bitter to many people when ground into whole wheat flour. When buying your wheat for roasting, I prefer hard wheat as it has more gluten than soft wheat. But sometimes people do prefer soft wheat. Both are readily available from many grocery stores as well as from mills like Bob's Red Mill, located in Milwaukie, Oregon.

This recipe makes one serving, increase as necessary for more than one person. If you are unable to roast and grind wheat you could substitute whole wheat flour for roasted wheat flour.

Ingredients
1 large egg
1/2 - 3/4 C roasted wheat flour mix*
Pinch of salt
All purpose unbleached white flour for dusting the cutting board

Method
⦁ In a small bowl, beat the egg and salt together with a fork.
⦁ Add half of the flour mix and stir with the fork until combined, then stir in the rest of the flour mix.
⦁ Turn out the dough onto a well floured cutting board and knead until the dough is no longer sticky and is firm but still somewhat pliable.
⦁ Cover and allow the dough to rest for 10-20 minutes.
⦁ Divide the dough in half, and, using a rolling pin, roll it out as thin as possible (about 1/16" in thickness). If you're using a pasta machine, flatten the dough with your hand and run it through the rollers, starting with the thickest setting and progressing down to the thinnest setting.

I like to use this pasta cutter rolling pin to make layout lines in the dough. The rolling pin is supposed to actually cut the noodles from the dough, and it would if the cutters weren't wood (the pin and the cutters are all milled out of a single piece of Beech wood), so I still cut the noodles with the pizza cutter, but I really like the rolling pin for making the layout lines. Makes my noodles more uniform.

⦁ Using a pizza cutter or knife, cut the dough into noodles and move to a dry container. If you're using a pasta machine run the dough through the fettuccini cutter.
⦁ Roll out and cut the other half of the dough.
⦁ Heat a pan of water along with a bit of oil, to boiling and add the pasta, using a chopstick or fork to separate the noodles.
⦁ Once the noodles have risen to the surface and the water has returned to a boil, reduce heat to medium high and cook for 2 minutes, or until it has reached the desired tenderness.
⦁ Remove from water and drain.
⦁ Serve immediately with your favorite sauce.

*Roasted Wheat Flour mix - roasted wheat flour and all purpose unbleached white flour mixed 1:1

Roasted wheat pasta with Chicken Merlot. It's what's for dinner.

All content, including pictures, © Joanne Rigutto, unless otherwise noted.

Chicken Merlot

Chicken Merlot over home made roasted wheat pasta

One of the nice things about cooking with aged chickens (spent hens or, really, any chicken that is over a year of age) is that they can stand up to long slow cooking. Just as tough cuts of beef, such as brisket, need to be cooked long and slow, so too do aged birds, especially the wings and drumsticks, which are the toughest part of a tough bird. Because they need this kind of long slow moist cooking, the flavors that develop when cooking a bird like this are simply not possible to obtain with a young bird. The young bird would be mush by the time the flavors have developed properly.

This is a recipe I developed for older chickens and is similar to Coq au Vin.

Ingredients -
Drumsticks and wings from 3 aged hens*
3 large onions
3 large carrots
1 C chopped celery
1 C seasoned flour**
1/4 C butter
Cooking oil (corn, canola, safflower, etc.)
3 C Merlot wine
2 3" sprigs of Rosemary

Method -

• Peel and quarter the onions, then cut into 1/2" slices.
• In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the butter and add the onions. Cook on medium until caramelized, stirring often.
• Peel and quarter the carrots, and layer them and the celery over the onions, once the onions are a deep golden brown. Remove from heat and set aside.
• In a skillet, heat 1/4 cup of oil on medium high, dredge the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour and frown in batches, layering the browned chicken on the carrots and onions as they come out of the skillet.
• Between batches, skim off as much of the oil as possible and deglaze the pan with 1/2 cup of the wine, adding it to the pot too.
• When the last of the chicken comes out of the skillet, skim off all the oil and deglaze the skillet for a final time, adding the liquid to the pot.
• Add the rest of the wine and the rosemary to the pot, cover, and bake at 300° F for 5 hours.

* This recipe is best made with the drumsticks and wings from aged hens (dual purpose hens who have gone through their second laying cycle). Aged roosters can be used, although the skin will be considerably tougher than that of an aged hen. The thighs and drumsticks are the darkest meat on the birds and along with the wings, are also the toughest. And, for this type of recipe tough is a good thing, as the birds need to cook for a long time in order for the flavors to develop properly. It's for this same reason that I don't recommend using the breast meat (neither the major breast meat nor the tenders) as even on an aged hen, those muscles will be too tender to withstand 5 hours in a 300° F oven.

However, if you do use either store bought chicken or home grown meat chickens such as Cornish Cross, Red Rangers, or even young cockerels of dual purpose breeds, reduce the cooking time accordingly. It'll still be good, but it won't be as rich as it would with the longer cooking time.

** Seasoned flour - 1 C white all purpose flour, 1 t salt, plus 1 T each garlic granules, onion granules,  Italian Seasoning, and fresh ground black pepper.

All content of this article including pictures © Joanne Rigutto

Low Tunnels, Winter Planting, and Season Extension

Red Oak Leaf lettuce, January 2011

To many people, winter is a time of rest for the garden. The days are short, the soil is cool (or frozen), and there's a lot or rain falling or snow on the ground.

But to me, winter is the time of beginnings because my New Year's Eve is the winter solstice.

I live in the northern Oregon Willamette valley, and our winters here are pretty mild. Only short periods of freezing weather, and usually a fair amount of rain. On the shortest day, we get about 8 hours of sunlight. Not enough to keep things growing like they do in July, but it's enough to keep plants in maintenance mode or, on sunny days, even slowly growing. In my opinion, the biggest challenge I have in my gardens during the winter are cool soil and waterlogged soil.

Back in 2010, I started looking at ways to grow produce in my gardens during the winter. The problems that needed to be dealt with and mitigated were cool soils and too much water in the soils. I already knew that these issues could be solved by using greenhouses but I didn't have those, nor did I have the money to buy one.

So, the alternative was to look at something smaller. My research lead me to low tunnels, which are truly amazing devices. They are inexpensive, portable, easy to configure in any way that works for a particular garden bed. They can be used on the flat or over raised beds. Easy and fast to set up, and take down as well. In cold weather they can be covered with greenhouse film. In warm weather they can be covered with floating row cover fabric or shade cloth, depending on what you're growing and the time of year. They can be used to get a jump start on spring, and extend the season on the back end of the year.

Celery, planted in late January 2011. The kneeling boards down the center of the tunnel mean that the tunnel doesn't have to be opened other than the ends to allow entry and exit.

But care needs to be taken, as a low tunnel with greenhouse film on a sunny and warm day can also turn into an oven. I found that out when I first started working with low tunnels. I had 120  72-count nursery trays (aka plug trays) in a tunnel one day. The little seedlings had only been up for a few days and were looking good. One day it got up to the low to mid 60s, but I didn't think anything of it because it was cloudy. Then the sun came out. Working in the gardens, I enjoyed the sunshine for a couple of hours. And then I went to check on the seedlings.... The tunnel had been sealed, and when the clouds parted and the sun started shining that tunnel turned into an oven. It was probably between 90° and 100° in that tunnel. If the plants in the tunnel had been larger they probably would have survived. But still being in the cotyledon stage, they fried. I lost 8,642 plugs of seedlings in just 2 hours on that day.

Lesson learned. Now, if it's going to be over 55°, especially if there's a chance of the sun coming out, the least I do it to open the ends of the tunnels. But usually, if the highs are going to be in the mid 50s, the danger of freezing temperatures is probably over, so the greenhouse film may not even be necessary and the tunnels will have floating row cover fabric over them. If, for some reason, they do still have  greenhouse film, I'll open the ends and roll up the sides during the day.

There are many ways to build low tunnels. My preferred style is bows made from 10' sticks of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe over 5' wide beds. It's best to use schedule 40 PVC because it's more resistant to UV radiation and temperature fluctuations. A tunnel built with 10' sticks over a 5' wide bed will be approximately 40" tall, which gives the average person enough room to work in a closed tunnel when crawling down the center, and if working from the sides with the walls rolled up, the gardener only has to reach 30" (or less if you leave a center path.

Low tunnel set up for peas in February. The sides are anchored by blocks made of left over mortar (I'm a retired tile and stone installer).

I cover the tunnels with 12' wide greenhouse film or 12' wide floating row cover, which leaves one foot on either side for weights to anchor. Sand bags, rocks, soil, boards or other weights can be used to anchor the sides of a tunnel. Sand bags (or bags filled with soil) are the best weights to use as they are easy to move and won't damage film or fabric that flaps against them.

66" wide tunnel (that used to be my default width of beds). This tunnel's film is held down by boards. The ends of the tunnel are kept closed with pinch clamps that anchor the film to the end T-posts.

To anchor the bows of the tunnel, I use ground pins, a top rail, and T-posts. The ground pins are made from 4' round fiberglass rods normally used for moveable electric fencing. The rods can be cut with a side grinder using either a carborundum or diamond blade and the blade is used to shape the blunt end into a point, which makes driving it into the ground easier. Each rod is cut in half, making 2 2' ground pins. When driven into the ground to a depth of 12", they are sufficient to keep the bows in place. The ground pins are placed on either side of the bed at 5' intervals, and the pipe slid over them.

T-posts are driven into the ground at each end of the bed and the end bows are tied to them. A top rail of the same pipe that the bows are made of, is run down the center of the bows after they are installed, and anchored to the T-posts with string and the tops of the bows with duct tape. This makes a surprisingly sturdy frame to hold the film or fabric. I also like to lay plastic construction netting over the ridge pole and bows. This adds extra support to the film or fabric and helps to keep them from sagging when it's raining.

Low tunnel with netting on the sides and ends to keep chickens out of the tunnel when the film sides are raised.

All content and images, unless otherwise noted © Joanne Rigutto